For our last evening in New Zealand we visited some friends from the UK who emigrated four years ago. Their house was badly damaged in the earthquake and when we visited them two years ago they were in rented accommodation awaiting the repair work. Two years on they are living in a cabin in the garden and the only progress is that the house has been condemned. Liquifaction has made the ground too unstable and piles would have to be sunk 13m for there to be any stability. The cost implications are not worth considering. Eventually, once all the insurance issues have been sorted the house will be pulled down, the ground made stable, and a smaller house built on the site. The cabin will then be moved. Where? They have bought a six hectare vineyard north of Christchurch and the cabin will be guest accommodation. Exciting times lie ahead for our friends.

Angela with the Richardsons with Christchurch below and the Southern Alps hidden in cloud

In the evening we drove over to some hills that separate Christchurch from Governors Bay and Lyttleton Harbour. The roads are far from perfect and there are engineering projects going on just about everywhere. In the earthquake all the drains and sewers were fractured. Water pipes were split and all the things which we take for granted were disrupted. Often, the road surface dropped while things like drain covers and manholes were pushed up. Drivers have to be aware of these hazards all the time. Climbing to the top we were given fabulous views either side. Inland we looked over the city towards the mountains beyond. Unfortunately a layer of cloud prevented us from seeing the snow capped peaks of the Southern Alps. Looking the other way we looked down on to Governors Bay, Quail Island, Lyttleton Harbour and over towards the hills of Banks Peninsular and Akaroa. The waters of the bay had the smokey blue waters we have become so accustomed to.

Descending the hill we adjourned to the pub for dinner.

Our last morning dawned cloudy. Having packed and loaded the car ready for the airport, we took the bus into town. Last time the central square mile was cordoned off but now it is all much more accessible. I guess being able to see the devastation at close quarters guaranteed I would feel quite depressed at the lack of progress. Some work has been done. New hotels are up and running along with garage sale rooms, all franchises with corporate money supporting them. Sadly, that meant that there were a huge number of buildings and businesses which had seen no progress in the last three years. Beyond the 185 people who were killed so many more lives and livelihoods have been ruined.

The ruins of the cathedral

The one building we have heard most about is the cathedral, the tower of which collapsed in the quake and caused a fair proportion of the fatalities. Nothing has been done other than to shore up the remainder of the building while decisions are made. The building as it shakily stands is not safe and to make it safe would cost a fortune. On the one side are the practical minded who want it pulled down but on the other side there are a great many emotional people who want it either restored or left as a monument of remembrance. In the meantime it stands as a sad reminder getting sadder as time and nature gain a hold on it. It is really quite a depressing sight.

The interior of the new cardboard cathedral

On a more positive note, a little way away, is a new temporary cathedral made of cardboard. It is a remarkable building full of light, hope and promise. It is made of a series of cardboard tubes with steel rods up through the middle. The rods are flexible and there are three tubes per rod also allowing for movement and flexibility. Indeed there are signs of movement in the joints between the tubes. Over the top, at a very steep angle, matching that of the tubes, is a perspex roof, again flexible but also allowing a lot of light to enter the building. At one end virtually the whole of the triangle is made up of stained glass or a modern equivalent. The pulpit, the font, the Lady Chapel, the choir stalls are all made of cardboard tubing, although smaller in dimension but resembling the tubes used by carpet manufacturers.

Dotted around the city are a number of art installations, vast end walls, now exposed, with colourful pieces of artistic work. Some are better than others, but the one that hits home the hardest is a display of 185 white chairs of all shapes and sizes,including a baby’s carry chair. Each one represents a loss. people are invited to sit in them and contemplate. Where it hits hardest is, if, in your mind, you replace each chair with a person you begin to understand and appreciate what 185 looks like in reality.

Container outlets

Many sites, where buildings have been demolished , are now car parks, although not many cars seem to occupy the spaces. Considering it was a Saturday morning the centre of Christchurch was eerily quiet. Many of those we saw were tourists, like ourselves, moving quietly from one devastating scene to another. The people of Christchurch seem to restrict their presence there to specific places, the new shopping mall and the many container coffee houses that have sprung up in an effort to bring some life back to the city centre. These are remarkable structures, linked together like Lego to make up an interesting 3-dimensional building. Some shops, in order to get back on the street have copied the style and it makes for some interesting buildings, even if they do turn out to be temporary.

The cinema

For all the positives there are negatives to both depress and shock. Part of the High Street, cordoned off, has not changed since the day of the earthquake and the cordons were put up. Another building, once a cinema, shows the seats, littered with debris, looking out on to the devastation where the screen had once been. Nothing has been done to these buildings and many others like them and you have to ask yourself, ‘How long will all this take?’ It is a huge project and one that will last for many years to come yet.

I was pleased to catch a bus to take me out of the city centre and away from the scene of destruction and human misery, despite the fact that it would mean that I would have to go to the airport and leave New Zealand. We have had an awesome time, done and seen so much. With the exception of the scenes in Christchurch, there is not a bad view in New Zealand. It has everything anybody could wish for. There is such beauty here from dramatic coastlines, majestic mountains, stunning waterfalls, fascinating wildlife, a great climate that can be extreme at times, adrenalin activities, peace and quiet, and of course we have family and a beautiful new granddaughter who will entice us back time and time again, I hope.

With high pressure sitting firmly off the west coast of South Island and another off the east coast of North Island, the weatherman on TV was giving very positive information about the weather over the next few days. Two years ago we wanted to go to the Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers but the weather was so poor it was not worth the effort of getting there. Our plan initially was to just go to Hokitika to look at the gorge but If the weather remained good we might venture as far as the glaciers.

With such positive news we left Hanmer Springs while cloud still haloed the peaks but with the promise of another hot day. As we headed west any cloud was replaced with crystal clear skies. This was short lived as we descended from one range into valley mist before climbing once more into sunshine.

The town of Reefton might only be quite small but it was the first place in the Southern Hemisphere to install street lighting. Clearly the residents are proud of this claim to fame.  We were passing through at midday and all the street lights were on. It is a shame that the installer never worked out how to turn them off.

As we crossed the next, coastal range of mountains more cloud greeted us and remained with us all the way to Westport. The weather man got it wrong, a layer of cloud obscured the sun they promised. The approach through the Buller Gorge was impressive.

Wood debris on North Beach, Westport

Westport, population 6000, is not the most attractive town in South Island. It’s origins are from mining, first for gold and then much more successfully for coal. The only building with character is the Art Deco influenced civic building. Exploring the surrounding area we visited North Beach first. Rather worryingly a sign on the approach said that firearms and search lights were not allowed on the beach. Does that mean they are allowed in the town? Not a soul could be seen, perhaps for fear of being shot. However the grey sand was not particularly attractive but what covered the upper part of the beach made access difficult; wood debris from tree trunks to branches to twigs were piled up around the high water mark. Incredible to see but not to sit among.

A Weka

On the southern side of town we went to Cape Foulwind, an exposed headland with a lighthouse to warn passing shipping. This provided us with our first encounter with a Weka, a flightless bird with absolutely no fear. At Cape Foulwind car park one came running up to us in search for food. I know we shouldn’t feed them but we were just eating a few crisps before we went up to the cape and before we realised what we were doing the Weka was taking crisps from our fingers. It is so enjoyable when nature comes so close to you and has no fear.

The pinnacles off Cape Foulwind

Off shore pinnacles of rock jut out of the water like teeth. Remarkably, only one tragedy has occurred.

Just round the corner from the cape is Tauranga Bay with an excellent restaurant on the southern side, where another Weka hovered by our feet in the hope of a chip or two, while on the northern side there is a seal colony . Between, surfers endeavoured to improve their skills.

Having settled into our accommodation we headed south for 60km to Punakaiki and the geological marvel of the pancake rocks and blow holes. The drive along the coast is superb with towering limestone, forested cliffs above us to our left and a rugged coastline to our right. Our aim was to get there for high tide and sunset in the hope that the combination of the two would produce some fabulous pictures. The rocks are superb. Having risen from the sea millions of years ago water, wind and the action of the sea has eroded them into fantastic shapes. The pancake appearance is because the rock is made up of layer upon layer like a series of contour lines.

Pancake rocks

A walkway leads you from one dramatic scene to another. All around and beneath us the sound of the sea working away at the rock could be seen and heard. Occasionally a great whoosh indicated trapped air in a blowhole but the tide was neither high enough or rough enough for the spray to come to the surface.

We were rather too early for high tide so we killed time by visiting a nearby Speights bar and restaurant for a drink. It was obvious that we were not going to get a sunset but I was still hoping for a blowhole display. The bar was run by three women who although friendly I would be reluctant to cross. They had a used look about them as if they were the offspring of gold prospectors or pioneers. Although friendly, I guess they would stand no nonsense.

Beautiful but not dramatic enough

Returning to the pancake rocks for high tide I was disappointed with the lack of action. The combination of a low high tide and a relatively placid sea meant that there would be no blowhole activity beyond a few teasing whooshes. Although disappointing, the pancake rocks are  a fascinating spectacle and well worth a visit.

Back at the pub, this time for a meal, one if the women told me that to get the full display you need the highest tides combined with strong winds and a big swell. Everything had been against us, including the lack of a sunset.

On the return 60km drive to Westport I suggested Angela and I had a competition – guess the number of cars to pass us in the opposite direction – the loser making the tea when we got back to the motel. It was only 9.00pm so there was a good chance that there would be a few out and about. Angela suggested 10, me 8. Remarkably we were both significantly wrong, we saw 3! Angela made the tea. This exercise just highlights how quiet New Zealand roads are and what a pleasure it is to drive on them.

The next morning, with the promise of reasonable weather, we decided to change our loosely devised plan and drive to Franz Josef to have a look at the glacier. The forecast was not too bad but there was no guarantee that it was going to be as good as they said. It was worth the try. Our plans to visit Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers two years ago were thwarted by bad weather so we were hoping for better this time.

Retracing our steps of last night we continued beyond Punakaiki to the dismally named Greytown. It is not quite as dismal as it sounds but we had little inclination to linger there.

The next town was Hokitika. Here we deviated and took a 30km inland detour to have a look at the Hokitika Gorge. The drive took us across a flat plain of agricultural land dotted with small farms, none of which looked terribly prosperous. The flat plain gave way to cloud shrouded hills, which, if they were properly visible, would be mountains. Where the Hokitika River emerges from the mountains it has cut dramatically through the limestone. The combination of glacial silt and limestone has turned the water a beautiful blue.

Angela knows her place!

Returning to the main highway we continued our journey south, stopping again at the small gold rush town of Ross. Ross came into being in the 1860s with the discovery of gold and the population quickly grew to 2500. But it didn’t last and now the population is less than 300. Ross is proud of its heritage and the village is a living museum to the days if the gold rush. A series of trails take you to a number of mines or gold related sites while the town has a number of restored buildings. Those buildings which have not been restored, like the Roddy Nugget cafe, named after a 3.1kg gold nugget found in 1909, are an insight into Ross life. The back of the cafe had  been turned into a museum displaying anything related to motorbikes, household goods and farming implements, a real treasure trove of rubbish. It appears not to be the only place like it.

On reaching Franz Josef we ventured up towards the glacier and climbed the small hill, the Sentinel, for a good view. At least that is what we should have had had the cloud not almost obliterated it from view. There was a hint of a glacier but nothing more. We returned to the village, a typical mountain resort, in the hope that the morning would bring clear skies.

Rain forest view

Our accommodation for the night was the Rainforest Retreat, a series of cabins set amongst a forest of indigenous trees and ferns. The outlook from our cabin was stunning, a great picture of greenery and lushness. Despite being very busy, full of lively young people, mainly Americans, it was easy to lose them in the jungle. What was difficult to marry together was tropical rainforest with glaciers.

The Fox Glacier

The morning dawned clear, so we quickly packed, and instead of returning to the Franz Josef Glacier, drove further south to the supposedly more spectacular Fox Glacier. It proved successful, the skies remained clear and good views were had. From the snout of the glacier a work team was cutting steps for the various groups who were to spend time on a guided tour on the glacier, making it easier for them to gain access to the ice. As we descended from our view point a couple of groups were heading in that direction.

All the time there was a constant droning noise from the air above as helicopter after helicopter flew over to take people up to the higher parts if the glacier and to view Mt. Cook, making the most if the good weather before the cloud returned and grounded the craft.

Also at the viewing point for the glacier was one of my favourite birds, the Kaka. It is a New Zealand parrot with a great sense of mischief and fun. They have little fear of people and will investigate anything left unattended. While there somebody put their wind proof jacket on the ground and while his back was turned the Kakas went through its pockets. It was as much fun watching them as it was looking at the glacier.

It was a wise decision to look at Fox Glacier as cloud began to build and by the time we returned to Franz Josef the glacier was largely obscured.

Fox Glacier

Once these glaciers flowed all the way down to the sea. Since then they have receded a great deal as the coast is now 19km away. While this recession has been happening over a long time, there has been an acceleration over the last century.

Our time in New Zealand is rapidly coming to an end, so having made our flying visit to the glaciers we now retraced our steps by heading north to turn inland just north of Hokitika for the climb to New Zealand’s highest road, Arthur’ Pass.

Looking east from near Arthur’s Pass

As we passed over the summit the grey cloud broke up, the light drizzle ceased and the sun broke through. It is often like this with the moist air from the sea forced up over the mountains. This is why the west coast of South Island often experiences much worse weather than the rest of the country. This side of the range is suddenly much less forested with large hillsides of open pasture and rock with just the occasional patch of forest. The river valleys are also much wider and flatter on this side of the range with gravel beds and braided rivers.

We were staying in the Bealey Hotel for one last night in the mountains before heading for Christchurch and our flight out. With a little time to kill I decided to tidy up my beard with a dry razor blade. I made such a pig’s ear of the job that I had to go the whole hog and shave it off completely. It took four razors to remove something that has been sprouting from my face for the last 24 years. Even when I played a pantomime dame I kept my beard. I kept the moustache, for now. Angela couldn’t stop laughing every time she looked at me. I hoped it made me look younger but now jowls are exposed and the youngish face that disappeared behind facial hair all those years ago is no longer! I look like my dad!

A fly’s head or an elephant?
What do you see?

After breakfast on our last full day in New Zealand we drove to Christchurch. On the way we stopped off at Castle Hill, a ridge of sculpted limestone. Clambering amongst the rocks you were able to see a variety of shapes, which captured the imagination. One rock from one side looked like a glove puppet while on the other Angela thought it looked like an elephant while I thought it looked like an insect’s head. Nature’s art had created something much more impressive than a Henry Moore.

We arrived in Christchurch in glorious sunshine ahead of the forecast ‘once in a hundred years’ storm that is due to hit New Zealand just after we have left tomorrow. Didn’t they have one of those storms a couple of weeks ago? I think the blowholes at Punakaiki will be impressive on Sunday.

The drive from Kaikoura to Hanmer Springs passes through some very pleasant countryside with mountain range after mountain range, the higher peaks streaked with snow from the recent storm. We took a slight detour to explore the Mt. Lyford ski area but there was very little to see other than a lot of sections for sale and magnificent log cabins in those sections that had already been developed. Dropping out of the mountains we crossed the Waiau river basin before entering another mountainous region on the approach to Hanmer Springs.

Hanmer Springs region from Conical Hill

Hanmer Springs is a pleasant little town at the head of a valley surrounded by a wall of mountains, the main peak being Mt. Isobel (1342m). Large areas of the slopes are covered with plantation forests, others with traditional forests indigenous to New Zealand and more as open grazing pasture, now parched after the dry weather of recent weeks. There are numerous things which draw people to the village. Walkers and mountain bikers enjoy the mountains in the summer, skiers flock here in the winter when the slopes are covered in deep snow, adrenalin seekers come for jet boating, white water rafting and bungee jumping among other similar activities. What draws people at any time of year are the hot springs in the centre of the village. A series of thermal pools with temperatures ranging from the mid thirties to low forties all containing therapeutic qualities. Attached to the centre is a spa where, for a fee, you can book various treatments to remedy ailments, rejuvenate or simply to give yourself a little pampering.

We booked a two day pass and enjoyed some time venturing from one pool to another and people watching. There were a lot of people of a certain age.

In the evening we ruined everything we had tried to achieve in the pools by eating a superb Indian meal at Malabar.

Tho following morning we pottered around the village before climbing Conical Hill overlooking the village. The bulk of the climb is on a winding path through a plantation of Douglas Firs. They clear for the summit affording views of Hanmer Springs and the surrounding countryside.

Afterwards, while Angela enjoyed the pools again, Stephen and I drove a few kilometres out of town to the Thrillseekers centre where we were going to go jet boating. It was quiet. Nobody was taking the plunge from the bridge over the Hanmer River and there was an end of season feeling about the place. Judging the age of the majority of people enjoying the pools, there were not many who were either young enough or inclined to participate in any of the activities on offer.

Jet boating. Only the video will give an idea of speed and drama.

Our jet boat was an eighteen seater but there were only six of us, which was great because it meant we could change places so that we could enjoy the experience from different positions in the boat. Jet boats are remarkable toys. They have two 250 horse power engines which suck in water and expel it at a rate of 350 litres per second. This allows them to travel at speeds up to 100kph in water as shallow as 10cm. Each jet is independent of the other and it is this that makes them so manoeuvrable.

Our journey took us for 13km through the Hanmer Gorge in less than nine minutes, steering around rocks, skirting close to cliffs, and performing 360 degree spins. Having covered the distance we returned up stream, passing our starting point and continued on to a braided section of the river close to the village. We then returned to the jetty below the centre, having spent forty minutes rushing up and down the river.

360 degree spin

It was thrilling to be travelling so fast through the water and to get so close to walls of rock and boulders within the river, but at no time was it scary. Perhaps if it had been a narrower gorge with more obstacles I might have been more concerned.

Adrenalin rush over we joined the rather more sedate po dwellers while Angela enjoyed a spa session.

All too soon Stephen’s time with us in New Zealand came to an end. Leaving Angela in Hanmer, I drove Stephen to Christchurch Airport for his flight back to Indonesia. It was a beautiful morning with clear skies but occasional bands of mist hugging the hillsides. The early morning colours were beautiful. Sadly no time to photograph.

Having returned to Hanmer, Angela and I took a walk following Dog Stream up to Dog Stream Waterfall, a column of water that falls 41m high up on the slopes of Mt. Isobel. The walk took us through one of the indigenous forests I mentioned earlier. Many of the trees were honey trees, so called because the sap smells of honey and attracts bees. The bark of the tree is black, making it look as if it has been burnt by fire, but no such occurrence has taken place. The blackness even covers the ground, spreading out from the base of the tree. The smell of honey us quite strong and bees in their thousands are attracted to them. There is a constant hum in the air.
Not too much water tumbles over the fall at the moment but it is not too difficult to imagine it with more. As impressive , if not more so, is the vivid moss clinging to the rock down the length of the fall.

Tomorrow we head west, travelling through the Southern Alps to the west coast for a couple of days.

Having left Picton we drove to Blenheim and on to Kaikoura along State Highway 1, which hugs the shoreline along some pretty spectacular coastline. This is the Pacific Ocean so, with nothing between New Zealand and South America, other than the Chatham Islands, quite a swell comes ashore in impressive breakers. Rising steeply from the road are the mountains, the highest of which have snow. While we were enjoying the beautiful weather up in the Abel Tasman, Christchurch and the surrounding area were experiencing a “once-in-a-hundred-years” storm with severe flooding in Christchurch and snow on the mountains.

As we drove to Kaikoura the spray from the breaking sea created a mist in the air making the view more interesting and dramatic. We stopped on several occasions to admire the seascape and to look at seal colonies.

Kaikoura, as a town, is a little disappointing. The approach along the road behind the dunes is a mixture of motels and small industrial plots, all rather featureless. The main street is a few shops and eateries and nothing more. The southern side of town is a little more interesting. However, it has gone through a number of boom and bust periods, which have clearly had an impact on how the town has developed. Originally a whaling base and an agricultural centre for the fertile flat alluvial plain behind the town, it declined on both fronts when whaling became less acceptable and agricultural methods changed. It was also a significant railway town but with the decline of the major industries, that also declined.

Today, Kaikoura attracts thousands of visitors a year for the whale watching tours which take place several times a day. However, that has not been a smooth journey as they were treated with some suspicion by the old whalers in the early days, and the 2011 Christchurch earthquake deterred many visitors from coming to the region, particularly when tour operators advised travellers to stay away. 30,000 people cancelled their trip to Kaikoura in the year following the earthquake, and when each tour costs $145 per person, that equates to a huge loss of income.

We were booked on a tour at 3.00pm. The weather was good but there was a reasonable swell which meant it wasn’t going to be a particularly smooth ride. Kaikoura is one of the top whale watching sites in the world. About five miles off shore there is a deep canyon in the continental shelf which leads out to deeper water below the shelf. Warm currents flow from the north along the coast while cold currents flowing from the south meet at Kaikoura. That combination means that the canyon is a perfect source of food for whales, particularly Sperm Whales, which are resident throughout the year. Other species including Orcas, Blue Whales and many more lesser known species pass through the area on their migratory route. It is not just whales but also dolphins and many varieties of sea birds including the majestic albatross.

Dusky Dolphins

With about forty fellow passengers we set sail for the sperm whale feeding grounds about eight miles off shore. Within a few minutes of leaving we came across a pod of about 200 Dusky Dolphins swimming and leaping all around the boat. They were very difficult to photograph as they moved so quickly and were unpredictable in what they did and where they went. I tried latching on to a single dolphin who would then swim under the boat and entertain the passengers on the other side. It was a remarkable spectacle to see so many and some of those on the edges of the pod were leaping really high and flipping at the same time. It was a privilege to be there, surrounded by such special creatures who clearly enjoyed human company and the challenge of keeping up with the boat.

When not watching on deck we were confined to our seats in the cockpit as the boat travelled through the water at about 50kph in its quest to find the whales. As well as the captain there were two lookouts on the bridge and once a whale was sighted we would head towards it at high speed but also making sure that we only approached it from the rear before coming within 50m to one side of it. All the whales we were hoping to see were males as they remain in the area all year while the females migrate with their young to return only when they are ready to mate again.

The crew know the local whales very well and their patterns of behaviour. They come up to the surface to re-oxygenate their blood, taking in lots of air and exhaling through their blow hole. Whilst doing this they float on the surface using very little energy. All we can see is the top of the head where the blow hole is, along the back to just beyond the dorsal fin, and not a lot more. The bulk of the animal is below the surface. Ben described it as “log watching”. It was much more than that.

The crew were able to tell us in advance to have our cameras ready for the moment when the whale dives. They take a long breath, arch their backs and point their heads down towards the depths. In doing so their tail, or fluke, rises out of the water, majestically, and gradually disappears below the surface. The tail is what propels them to the bottom of the canyon and long after they have disappeared there is a smooth patch of water on the surface created by their tail propulsion. Wow! It is a fantastic sight and something I have wanted to see for a long time. I can now tick it off my bucket list.

With the whale gone, and knowing it would be some time before it resurfaced again, the crew set about finding another. Every-so-often the captain would stand at the side of the boat, lower what looked like an alpenhorn into the water and listen through headphones for any sign of whales. They give off sonar signals which can be picked up, giving an indication as to which direction and how far away they are. While this was going on we could be on deck enjoying watching the albatross swoop by, sometimes just centimetres above the surface of the water but never touching it. However, as soon as we had an indication of a whale, we were back in the cabin and racing off to find it.

Some people were really struggling with the swell and quite a few were seasick. It struck me as an incredibly expensive trip if you spent all your time with your head in a sick bag, unable to leave your seat, and tragically unable to enjoy the spectacle of the whales, dolphins and seabirds.

We found a second whale, one that has been resident in these waters for at least 21 years. He was about 19m in length. Like the first, he had surfaced to re-oxygenate his blood before diving again for food. Again, the crew readied us for the flick of the tail. This time we were more sideways on rather than towards the rear but it was still very special.

All too soon for me, but not for those with their heads in sick bags, it was time to head back to shore. I was astonished how far we had travelled down the coast from Kaikoura, having lost all sense of direction while my eyes and mind were focused on enjoying the wild life. It was a thoroughly enjoyable trip, the crew were very professional and informative and we got the results we wanted. It was worth every cent.

Adjacent to the whale centre their is Kaikoura Helicopters. Stephen and I decided to enquire about a flight. They also go whale watching but having already done that we chose  to book the flight up to the top of Mt. Fyffe (1603m) for the following morning. Stephen, being a pilot, is fascinated by helicopters and is undecided as to whether to add this to his fixed wing license. I have flown in Nepal, as has Stephen, but Angela has never flown in one. It was weather dependent so we hoped we’d wake up to a clear morning.

Before we returned to our motel we drove around the headland to the seal colony. Having been here two years ago we knew how unperturbed the seals were about humans. It has not changed. Seals lay sleeping next to the path among the natural debris of the beach, looking as if they were washed up on the last high tide. They are remarkably complacent. It is also a fascinating place just to witness the power of the ocean as the waves crash against the rocks of the headland. It is also a great place to come and see birds feeding in the pools among among the rocks. There was even a blue heron, which seemed out of place with such violent waters so close, while the variable oyster catchers seemed perfectly at home.

The following morning dawned clear, with the promise of plenty of sunshine, so, as arranged, we went over to the helipad. Our pilot, Arron, seemed very young but was very capable. On taking off we ventured out over the sea, briefly, before heading inland towards Mt. Fyffe, which loomed dark ahead of us with a backdrop of snowy peaks behind. Arron talked to us all the time, pointing out things of interest and adding some background to the scene below and ahead of us.

After, perhaps, ten minutes, we were circling the summit of Mt. Fyffe and landing on the summit. A lone walker was resting after climbing up from the hut below, to have her peace shattered by the helicopter. Killing the engines, peace was resumed, but now she was not alone to enjoy the view. And what a view. Below us the alluvial fan of flat agricultural land culminated in the Kaikoura headland with a white ring of surf around it. Out at sea the whale watching boats could be seen either going out on their hunt or returning

Behind us was a wall of snowy mountains with deeps gullies pointing down to deeper valleys below. There was a breeze and the temperature was in lower single figures.

After fifteen minutes it was time to climb back into our helicopter and return to Kaikoura 1600m below. Mt. Fyffe is the easiest mountain top I have reached by a long way! It was also, by far, the smoothest helicopter ride I have had and was an excellent introduction for Angela. I am sure she would jump at the chance if the opportunity came her way again.

Having done everything we set out to do, and more, in Kaikoura, we hit the road again and headed inland for Hanmer Springs, a mountain resort with lots to offer.

Leaving Wellington

After nearly four weeks on North Island we were set to leave Wellington and North Island on the Bluebridge Ferry to Picton. We had spent considerably more time on North Island this trip and we really appreciate have explored it more and experienced some of its treasures and delights. I found I appreciated North Island much more this time. Although we had successfully covered new ground in our explorations, we still have plenty to fit into any future trip down here.

Cook Strait

Ben, Kelly and Eva were travelling with us and to make life a little easier with Eva we had a cabin booked. Eva decided now was the time to try to stand unsupported despite the gentle motion of the ship as it pulled our if Wellington Harbour. The crossing was pretty smooth with the exception of a thirty minute stretch of water where opposing currents meet as it is forced through the narrow gap that is the Cook Strait. Most if the time you are in the gentle waters in the lea of the south west corner if North Island or the quiet waters of Marlborough Sound.

Marlborough Sound

After so much dry weather we had a couple of squally showers during the three and a half hour crossing. Our arrival in Picton greeted us with a heavy downpour and the temperature had plummeted to 6 degrees. Fortunately the transfer process and the collection of a new hire car did not take too long and we were soon on the road. The rain was short-lived and soon after leaving Picton the skies cleared and strong late afternoon sun burst through bringing about a rapid temperature rise. Halos of cloud ringed the mountains while steam rose from the wet road, the combination of steam and sun making driving difficult at times. In places the side of the road was littered with hail stones. Bizarrely, sprinklers were watering the fields in abundance. Driving along deserted roads with mountains all around was fabulous and it quickly brought home to me how stunningly beautiful South Island is.

For the first time I had the urge to drive quickly. It is approximately 100 miles to Nelson from Picton and Stephen was due to fly into Nelson from Indonesia and we had only left ourselves an hour to get there. Fortunately, the heavy showers had delayed his flight across the Cook Strait from Wellington, on the last leg if his journey, so he did not have too wait long for us. It was unfortunate that he had chosen to fly in when the temperatures had dropped so dramatically; the contrast between the high thirties and humidity of West Papua was a shock to his system.

Driving from Nelson to Kaiteriteri during a stunning sunset was great. Sadly the camera was in the boot so no record of its drama could be taken.

We arrived at our batch, perched on the hill above Split Apple Bay in the dark, so could only really appreciate the interior. What an interior. Ben, who had booked it, really hit the mark with this one. The interior design was spectacular, all pine timbers and panelling, a top of the range kitchen, a sunken lounge, two sides of which were glass. Our bedroom had windows on three sides and the en-suite was to die for. To have a bath was to sit in a glass balcony while the vanity area was cleverly designed with a combination of glass and mirrors to give you the maximum view.

Looking north from the batch towards Adele Island

In the morning I was eager to get up to see the view from the house.  It wasn’t a disappointment. The house was perched on the highest point of the hill overlooking the Tasman Bay. On the horizon the hills stretching north from Nelson pierced the sky as the sun rose like a fiery beacon from behind. To the south the snowy peaks of the Kaikoura Mountains could be seen, distance making them appear much lower than the ranges much closer. Immediately to the north the large beach at the small village of Marahau. The tide was out and the golden sand was patterned with lagoons and chanels glistening in the early morning sun. Beyond the forested hills dropped down to the sea in a series of headlands and bays. Off shore were Fisherman’s Island and the larger Adele Island, named after the wife of the French explorer who first came to these shores.

Hot tub with a view!

Seeing the outdoor facilities of the house made it even more attractive. There was extensive decking, on several levels all around the seaward side of the house with a large barbecue and a perfectly positioned hot tub. A well planted and designed garden fell away on all sides with little walkways branching off. The sun shone, birdsong filled the air and everything was perfect.

We only had two days in the Abel Tasman National Park and we were really only going to be able to scratch the surface, leaving plenty to do and see on another visit. We chose to take a water taxi from Marahua to Anchorage and then explore on foot for a few hours before catching the taxi back. Fitting in with Eva’s routine we took a late morning taxi. The taxis are towed to and fro by tractors, the distance travelled dependent upon the tide situation. It was high tide so we were simply lowered down the launch ramp and into the water.

Seal pup

They are not merely taxis taking you in a direct line from A to B, they give you a guided tour along the route. We went first to Adele Island to have a look at the seal colony. This is made up entirely of females and babies, the males having gone off to do manly seal things. They only reappear to mate, usually a week after the females have given birth, and then disappear again. While the females relaxed on the rocks the babies frolicked in the clear waters. When they wanted their mother’s attention they whined and cried like babies.

Passing a series of secluded bays with golden beaches fringed with natural forest we headed into the “Mad Mile”, a section of rougher water before reaching the more tranquil waters of the small but beautiful Te Pukatea Bay with the perfect beach. From there we went around the next headland and turned into Anchorage Bay and another perfect beach.

Eva

Leaving the boat we had our picnic lunch on the beach before venturing on to one of the many trails through the forest, up and down hills and on to headlands overlooking the sea. The colour of the water was as vivid as I have ever experienced. Even when we were in the depth of the forest occasional flashes of azure would penetrate the trees. While we were all wowed by the beauty of where we were, Eva slept soundly in the backpack on Ben’s back.

Te Pukatea Bay

We eventually found ourselves at Te Pukatea Beach and we were the only ones on it. I had to have a swim. Thinking back to when we went to New Chums Beach, which had been voted as one of the world’a top twenty beaches, albeit in 2006, this, I think is better. All the beaches we are coming across are beautiful in one way or another, and what makes them so special is that most of the time they are deserted, probably because there are so many and not that many people to occupy them.

Water taxi

Returning to Anchorage Bay, we caught the water taxi back to Marahua. Now the sea was quite choppy and we bounced over the waves. It was now not just the “Mad Mile”, but most of the return journey. These taxis have very powerful outboard motors and can travel at 50kph. The drivers, while not taking unnecessary risks, like to go as fast as they can. Those sitting near the front of the boat (Ben, Kelly and Eva) were bouncing with each wave whilst those at the back (Stephen, Angela and myself) were victims of the spray.

The following morning Stephen and I were going sea kayaking while the rest took the taxi again to Anchorage and walked back to Marahua.

There are several kayaking packages you can do, guided or independent. We chose the one day independent package, which, after briefing, would allow us approximately five hours on the water. The wind was a south westerly, an off shore wind, which created a decent swell in the bay. Our brief told us that it was due to increase by the afternoon and that our return would be particularly difficult as we would be heading straight into the teeth of it.

Stephen took the front cockpit while I took the rear and had control of the rudder. We made ourselves comfortable and headed out across the bay towards Gilbert’s Point. The swell buffeted us about a bit but we coped. From Gilbert’s Point we headed out to Adele Island to have a close look at the seal colony. It was a relief to be in the lee of the island, in calm water and to take advantage of a rest while enjoying the antics of the seal pups. While we were there the rest of the family turned up in a water taxi, on their way to Anchorage Bay.

Having rested and enjoyed we headed straight back to the mainland to a small beach we could see. This meant going across the swell and this is when we got our wettest as the swell broke over us.

After lunch we headed back along the shore towards Marahua, allowing us plenty of time to get back in the face of the swell. However, for now, we were in flat water and able to explore the shoreline, looking into every nook and cranny, including passing through a small arch. We killed a bit of time by visiting another deserted beach for a swim and a rest before coming round Gilbert’s Point and the swell.

When we came round the point there was no wind and the water was flat and the run in to Marahua was very straight forward.

In the bar in time for “happy hour” we could have done with one of the staff lifting our pints to our lips, shoulders having had a really good workout.

Split Apple Rock

The following day we were heading back to Picton for one last night with Ben and family before they returned to Wellington. Before we left we popped down to have a look at Split Apple Beach with the rock just off shore. Wow, another fabulous beach. The Abel Tasman National Park is a fabulous area and we will be returning one day to explore it further.

Calling in at Nelson we all had lunch with a relative of Angela’s who came out to New Zealand twenty odd years ago, met a Kiwi and settled here.

Fond farewells

We had a super apartment on the waterfront in Picton. Ben and Kelly were sailing on the 8.00am ferry. After an emotional parting they went to check in to find that their sailing was delayed. So they returned with breakfast items. Saying our goodbyes again, less emotional this time, they went to check in again. Having done so they then arranged to meet us on the waterfront for a stroll. Finally, after three attempts, they returned to Wellington, leaving us to travel to Kaikoura with Stephen.