Perfect!

Woke up feeling refreshed after a good night’s sleep.  Not sure the same can be said for some of the young people nursed hangovers.  I think as I got up some were just settling down to some much needed sleep.  Drawing back the curtains, I was greeted with a perfect scene, bright sunshine glistening of glass smooth water.  This really is heaven on earth.

Following a very leisurely breakfast we sorted out the mess our room had become and transferred everything up to the bach a little way up the hill from the hotel.  I was keen to get the ‘jobs’ done as there was some playtime to be had in such wonderful conditions.  Attached to the hotel is an adventure centre where we could hire kayaks.  A number of us wanted to do this so at 1.00 we gathered for our safety briefing, which included watching an eight minute film.  In it we were warned to expect the unexpected and a whale leapt out of the water and crashed down amongst some kayakers.  Andy Rankin’s eyes, which until this episode had been almost glued together, were out on storks and he began to regret having got out of bed.

The happy kayakers

We had booked the kayaks out for four hours but we were barely 100 yards off shore when a number of us were beginning to think, ‘Why did we say we wanted four hours?’  It got easier as we got into the swing of things.  I shared a kayak with Stephen.  I sat in the back, which meant I had to steer as well as paddle.  Multi-tasking does not come easily and I kept losing contact the peddle on the left side and had difficulty finding it.  Popping ashore, out of sight of the hotel, just in case anybody was watching, we remedied the problem by swapping position.  Problem solved.

Looking good

We had a planned route but within half an hour of setting out the wind picked up and a swell on the water began to develop, particularly in areas less sheltered from the land.  It made for good fun but we soon realised that if we went the full distance a large part of our return journey would be into the wind and the swell, making it all the more difficult when we were beginning to tire. We cut short our route, but still managed to cover quite a considerable distance and were out about two and a half hours in total, which was long enough.  We were quite wet from the spray and the sunshine of the morning had been replaced with some threatening clouds.  The temperature had also dropped and combined with the strengthening wind it was becoming quite chilly.  We will know tomorrow that it was long enough when our shoulders are stiff.  I might also have some problems in the groin area from the sitting position and the bracing of the knees against the side of the kayak.  It was great fun, though.

Angela’s Bit 

I was sure I would wake with a headache!  But no!  hooray!

Today the sun shone and the promise is for continued good weather.  I am looking forward to enjoying this pretty spot, in a more relaxed manner.

Anna and I sat on the veranda of The Portage Hotel, sunning ourselves gently and watching people come and go.  The clear up operation after the wedding was in full swing.

At 2pm we took over the house, which we have rented for the next 4 days.  It is very modern and convenient with the same, now commonplace, breathtaking vistas.

I cooked spag bol for 12, so normal service is resumed!

As the day progressed the weather began to improve.  The sun made every effort to break through and just as quickly as it did so another brief shower dampened our excitement.  Kelly, throughout the morning and into the afternoon, was getting updates from Father Brian as to his progress from North Island to South Island.  It was touch and go.  The airline was also keeping us up to date with the situation and we heard that the plane carrying Father Brian had reached Blenheim but was circling the small airport, contemplating landing.  Fortunately it landed.

Stephen, Anna, Angela & Adam

I found myself taxiing people up to Ben and Kelly’s bach for hair and make-up and then discovered I was to collect the bride and bridesmaids and take them down to the Portage.  The weather was gradually improving.  The priest arrived in Jim’s van at 5.00 and delayed things a little as they still had to get themselves ready.  Eventually, about 20 minutes late all was ready and Kelly looking absolutely stunning emerged with Kay and Megan, the bridesmaids, and I drove them down to the portage.  As we arrived the sun came out and the temperature went up several degrees.  As Kelly walked across the lawn with her father and down to the front of the assembled gathering, Father Brian was still organising himself, putting on his robes and sorting through his papers.

Kelly & Ben sign the register with Father Brian

It was incredibly relaxed and informal.  After the introductions and welcome the serious business of the marriage took place.  Although it wasn’t serious at all, it was full of humour and smiles.  The only serious bit seemed to be my reading from the First Letter from Paul to the Corinthians.  The happy couple looked just that and are so right for each other.  The setting was perfect with glorious views looking out across the sound.  This is what we had come to New Zealand for; it had just taken us a month to find it.

Adam & Anna

The ceremony over, we all had a surprise in store.  A motorised catamaran was organised to take us all out for a cruise around the sound for an hour during which time we were to drink champagne and eat canapés and mussels.  By now all cloud had dissolved and the evening sunshine was the icing on the cake.  The sound looked stunning and the company was great.

Returning to the Portage we were ushered into the function room where the reception was being held.  Once we were all there Ben and Kelly processed in to the Star Wars theme.  It was here where traditional procedure did not follow.  Before we ate, Jim, Kelly’s father spoke.  Ben responded and Kelly also gave a speech.  All speeches were very good.  Ben got a little choked when he professed his love for Kelly.  It was remarkable that he had got this far through the day without displaying emotion.  He has a reputation for being emotional at times and there were plenty of reasons why he should be emotional today.

The wedding breakfast was a buffet of superb food, fish, salads, potatoes, lamb and beef.  It was all really tasty. After the main course it was time for the Best Men, Rijan Slater and Ben Shutes, both old school friends of Ben, to do their worst.  They did a good job and appropriately told the assembled friends and family a few truths about Ben in his pre Kelly days.  They certainly had enough material to choose from.

After the sweets we danced the night away until shortly after midnight.  While Angela and I sidled off to bed, many of the younger revellers kept the party going well into the early hours!

A great end to the day after such a worrying start and a really happy occasion.

Angela, The Mother of the Groom’s view of the day 

After the worries about the weather in the morning it turned out perfect in the end.

Having had a very stressful early morning; woken by the ‘almost cyclone’ storm, things were not looking good!  There had been severe weather warnings issued across North Island and the Marlborough Sounds where we were staying.  My imagination ran wild at 4am thinking that the roof might blow off or there would be a landslide.  Luckily we felt we were in a little part of paradise and the end of the day was a complete contrast to the start.  It turned into a magical dreamlike experience and I will treasure the fond memories.

Ben and Kelly have put a huge effort into planning their wedding and all that work paid off.  They chose a vintage theme.  Kelly’s dress was stunning, a straight, sleeveless, cream full-length shift with a slashed back from neck to waist and fully bejewelled!  It sparkled in the welcome sunshine and she looked reminiscent of an early Hollywood star.  Gorgeous!

The service was brief but touching.

The happy couple, Ben & Kelly on the cruise

The cruise, which followed was a surprise to most of us guests and it was an ideal opportunity for the photographer to do his stuff.  The beautiful scenery, wooded hills dropping steeply down to the sea and the occasional building peeping through the foliage was all the more appreciated from the boat.  The sun continued to reflect brightly off the water, echoing the light on Kelly’s crystal dress.

We had a lot of fun at the reception; cheery conversations, laughter and tears with the speeches, dancing and photo booth operating.

The seven hours flew by, there had been a lot of activity, not a moment to get bored;  a stupendous evening.

Fresh snow on the hills above Kaikoura

The overnight rain had gone and we were greeted with bright sunshine and snow on the surrounding hills!  The wind had dropped to nothing and the sea flattened out sufficiently for the whale watch sailings to go.  The weather forecast on the television talked of the ‘calm before the storm’ and there were over 100 severe weather warnings for the whole of the North Island and the top of South Island.  At the moment it is hard to imagine that the weather could deteriorate so much so quickly.  This is New Zealand and I believe it is capable of throwing anything at us whatever the season.

From the train

The train journey was spectacular with the first 70km hugging the shore line passing flocks of sea birds and colonies of fur seals lounging on the beaches.  On the inland side of the train the mountains rose up majestically.  Eventually we headed inland through the rolling Marlborough wine country, through Blenheim and on to picturesque Picton.  As we got off the train, Adam, Ben and Jez Robertson were there to meet us and help with the carrying of our luggage to the Avis office where we arranged the hire of another car, a larger one this time to accommodate Stephen and all our luggage.  It was good to see the boys so relaxed.

Car organised, we went to the supermarket to buy all the food for 10 people for the two days following the wedding, before driving round to Portage.  The drive was incredible around Marlborough Sound.  It has to be one of the bendiest roads I have ever been on.  With the exception of a short straight section half-way it was bend after bend as it followed the lines of the coast.  It took all my concentration and I was grateful the new car was an automatic.  The scenery is absolutely stunning with tree-covered hills dropping into blue/green water.  There are so many little inlets and coves it is such a fascinating area to explore.  The Queen Charlotte Trek, which passes through this area is one of New Zealand’s top treks and is one I seriously want to do on another occasion.

View from the Portage

Arriving an hour and a half later at Portage we met up with Anna and Stephen.  Our family was complete and it was great to have them all together, such a rarity with them being all over the place.  Ben and Kelly have chosen really well for their wedding.  The hotel grounds drop down to the water’s edge with layer upon layer of hills and promontories disappearing down the sound.  Stunning!!!

In the evening we all gathered for a BBQ and a drink or two to catch up with old friends who had come out for the wedding and to acquaint ourselves with some of Kelly’s family.

In the night the weather changed and the rain beat heavily down on the roof of the apartment we shared with Adam, Anna and Stephen.  The wind howled and we could feel it tugging at the walls and roof.  Several times the noise woke us up.  It lasted for hours.  We could hear water dripping through our ceiling on to the carpet by my head.  At some point in the night Angela persuaded me to put pillows by the doors to stop them rattling in the wind.  I kept feeling cool air blowing across my face and head from the patio doors from the balcony.  It was a wild night.

At breakfast we got a call from Ben, who had had little sleep as their bach at the top of the hill had felt the full force of the wind and shook all night, telling us that the wedding had been put back two hours to 5.00pm.  The priest, who was flying over from North Island, had had his flight cancelled and was hoping to get a later one, hoping the storm would abate. All ferries between the two islands have been cancelled for the day and they have even closed the Queen Charlotte Track and pulled everybody off.

As I write, things are beginning to calm down, the rain has stopped and the sun is trying its hardest to break through the cloud.  Assuming the priest can get here the wedding will take place at 5.00 as planned but it will probably have to be indoors rather than on the ceremonial lawn, which is a little damp and might be a little chilly in this, the worst New Zealand summer for years!

When things don’t necessarily go according to plan it is inevitably disappointing.  Seeing and photographing a whale’s fluke as it disappears under the waves has always been an ambition.  Understandably, I was excited about the prospect of fulfilling that ambition today.

The alarm went off at 5.30 this morning.  Even before I peered through the curtains I knew what the weather was like outside.  I could hear the rain on the corrugated iron roof of the motel, but more worryingly I could hear the wind howling through the trees on the other side of the car park.  I should have guessed then that the omens were against us.

Without a car, we struggled to the minibus shuttle for our lift to the station.  Checking in was easy and the trolley at the station helped enormously in getting our luggage to the luggage van.  We were assigned our seats in a very comfortable carriage with windows, not only along the sides but also over much of the roof.  The train consisted of two carriages, a buffet car and an open observation carriage at the rear as well as the luggage van.  It was all brand new stock.

Scenic train ride

We set off in the half light with the rain beating heavily giving us a watery outlook.  It was not long before the rain cleared and the light brightened.  We were travelling through lovely agricultural countryside; a mixture of sheep and cattle farming with an increase in vineyards as we travelled north.  Each seat was equipped with a headset and every so often a commentary gave us information about the areas we were travelling through.  About half an hour before we arrived at Kaikoura we followed the line of the coast and the journey became more interesting and spectacular.  Mountains drop dramatically down to the sea and the railway line hugs the shore and disappears into tunnels every-so-often.

Arriving at the ‘whaleway station’ (not a joke) the news was that all the morning sailing for whale watching had been cancelled.  The decision about the afternoon sailings was still pending.  There was a southerly gale blowing with a deep swell, making sailing unsafe.  It did not look good.

The shuttle took us to our accommodation for the night and then we ventured out to have a look at Kaikoura.  The sea in the bay looked very benign and it was hard to believe that sailings had been cancelled, but the bay is sheltered from southerlies by the headland to the south of the town.  The town itself is very pleasant and the scenery surrounding it is particularly spectacular, more so I suspect when the weather is good.  After a coffee we made our way to the whaleway station to see if there was any more news.  There was and it was not good.  All sailings for the day were cancelled.  Having got a refund we rubbed salt into our wounds and watched a film that was running about whales.

We had to make up for the disappointment so I suggested we walked around the headland, a walk that would last about four hours. With a sandwich each in my rucksack and camera gear ready we set off in beautiful sunshine.  Every so often information boards gave us information on the history of Kaikoura as a whaling station, about the animals that live on the edge of the coast and the birds.  On the end of the headland is a seal colony and they were all sleeping under the bushes, out of the wind, by the side of the car park.  Even they didn’t like the weather.

A good reason for not going out in a small boat!

From the headland it was clear why the whale watching had been cancelled, the sea was very angry.  As we walked up on to the cliffs we felt the full force of the wind, which, at times, knocked us off balance.

Eventually, we made it back to Kaikoura and stopped for refreshment at Monteiths, which rolled into dinner, before we headed back to our room for an early night.

In 2006 I was leading a group of students on a trek in India.  The climax of the trek was to climb Menthok, a peak of 6250m.  The night before we were due to climb to the summit we camped by the glacier in a blizzard, which raged all night.  We were due to start the climb at 3.00am but delayed until 5.00 and again until 7.00.  In the end the conditions were not right.  The blizzard had made the conditions difficult and dangerous, the more so because there now would not be enough daylight hours for us to safely complete the job.  On gathering the group in the mess tent, I gave them the bad news.  There was disappointment all round.  On that occasion we were in India for 28 days and that we were on a 28 day journey. I asked them to look at this day, this disappointment, as one twenty-eighth of that journey.  In that context it was not really that important.  We are away from home for 42 days so in the context of the whole journey our half- day whale watching experience is not really that important.

What we should have seen

I still want to do it, though.

Angela

‘Where do they weigh whales?……..At the whaleway station!!’  a favourite primary school joke, usually for a Jonathan Woss teller!  But very apt here.

So Kaikoura will need to be revisited to redeem its promise in our hearts.

Charming mallards tap on our patio door, how trusting and welcoming is that!  ‘Sweet’, as they say here.

Now trying to ignore the weather forecast for Saturday; Ben & Kelly’s wedding day.