We have now spent nearly a week in Wellington and it is a fabulous city. Wellington is renowned for its strong winds and generally poor weather. We have had virtual dawn to dusk sunshine and only one day that can best be described as breezy.

The business end of Wellington hugs the shore line around the various wharfs. It is the only part of The city that is flat. Behind the tower blocks that make up the centre there are green hills, thick with forest but with houses, making up the suburbs, scattered within.

The view from Ben and Kelly’s with the canopy below.

Ben and Kelly’s house is in the suburb of Crofton Down, perched on the side of a hill looking east. Below their balcony is a thick canopy of trees hiding the ground beneath, ground that cannot be used unless the trees are destroyed. Why destroy anything as beautiful as a canopy with at least six different varieties of tree in a small area. Many birds use the canopy for a variety of reasons and it means that all their action takes place at eye level or below, making them so much more visible.

Out of the forest the grassy tops of the hills protrude. It is so unlike any other capital city I know. With a population of just over 200,000 it is not large, by any means, and makes travelling around within the city relatively easy and stress free.

Ben, Kelly, Eva and Father Barry

The weekend was largely given over to the christening of our granddaughter, Eva, either preparing for the barbecue and party which was taking place at the house after the formal ceremony. The sun shone, Eva performed pretty well considering she was feeling off colour and it was great to mix with Kelly’s relatives and both their Kiwi friends whom we last saw at the wedding two years ago.

Wellington, like many capital cities has a generation of people who like to take every opportunity to get or stay fit. Street joggers are a common sight, not just along the flat shore front but also among the hills of the suburbs. It takes a certain dedication and determination to go running in Wellington. Many take to their bikes for work, which is a lot easier going into work than it is going home at the end of the day. It hurts just to see them struggling up the hills. Ben often cycles into work but brings his bike home on the train in the evening. He doesn’t feel that his fitness levels are yet ready to tackle the journey home on his bike.

The waterfront is a real mix of people – tourists ambling along, many from the cruise ships which regularly dock during the summer, joggers, cyclists and diners visiting the many excellent restaurants housed in converted wharf side sheds. There is plenty to occupy you as you stroll along. Dragon boat racing is popular and several mixed crews can be seen either practicing or competing. Some of the crews take the opportunity, once they have finished in the boat, to leap off the wharf into the sea and when many of them do it it creates quite a spectacle.

Crofton Down

Whilst I was in Wellington there were a number of things I wanted to do, knowing that Angela would be more than happy being a grandmother to Eva. One morning I set out to climb the hill overlooking Crofton Downs, access to it, I thought from a track at the end of the street we were living in. It was a beautiful morning with the potential to be very warm as morning progressed into afternoon. The track I was following turned out not to be a track after a quarter of a mile, as a wall of thick bush barred any further progress. There appeared to be a side track off to the right but that again proved fruitless as I fought my way through brambles and vicious stinging nettles.

Wellington water front

Facing defeat I turned back towards the houses and eventually found a track leading from a children’s playground and recreational field. The track climbed steeply through thick forest, so thick that very little light penetrated the canopy. After some time I emerged from the forest on to grassland and gorse. The gradient did not ease and each time I reached a high point it was a false summit with another beyond. This happened several times. It was hot and the exertion of climbing was making me sweat a lot. Thinking I was only going to be out for an hour or so I hadn’t bothered to carry any water, a decision I was beginning to regret. After about an hour of climbing I reached the summit where a cooling breeze helped make me feel more comfortable.

The view from the summit was stunning. Immediately below me was  the suburb of Crofton Down where Angela could look up and see me on the summit. The greater expanse of Wellington spread before me with the bay bathed in sunshine. Somes Island stood like a jewel in the bay. In the other direction, looking through the wind farm was the Cook Straight and South Island clearly visible. It was stunning and remarkable to think that I was probably only 6km from the centre of the city.

Cook Straight and South Island

Choosing to come down a more straightforward way, I followed the ridge over a few more lumps to pick up a major track gradually descending to what I hoped would be a track leading down to the end of our road. All was going well and I picked up the track dropping down but it soon reached a new development and disappeared amongst the newly laid concrete. The houses off were pretty impressive and had commanding views over both the hills and the bay. A number of attempts to drop down were thwarted by new houses or thick bush blocking my way. In the end I had to take the road route out which proved to take much longer than I planned. I was ready for, and deserved, the two pints of water I gulped on my return to the house.

When we were in Wellington last time, one of the highlights for us was Te Papa Museum. Then we spent six hours in there on a wet day and thoroughly enjoyed the experience. No matter how much time you spend it is impossible to take in all of the information and retain it, so a return visit was high on our list of to-dos. It was a cloudy but warm afternoon by the time we ventured into town, using the excellent train service, the line of which follows the tree-filled Ngaio Gorge, which emerged on to the flat coastal strip by the many wharfs.

Te Papa covers everything that is New Zealand, from its geological formation and the on going seismic and volcanic activity. It covers in great depth the birds, animals, fish, plants and trees indigenous to New Zealand and how they have had to fight for survival against the influx of non-indigenous species. There are large sections which give the history of the Polynesian migration, the relatively recent influx of western migrants and the eventual drawing up of the treaty between the British government and the Maori chiefs at Waitangi. In addition there are art galleries and more. A lot of the exhibits are hands-on so if you like pressing buttons it is ideal. There is a lot of written information to absorb but it is presented in such a way that  you want to read it. The fact that the subject matter is interesting helps of course.

Naturally, I am interested in the natural sciences sections but I find particularly interesting the section on  human migration and how chain migration occurred relating to specific skills people had in the mid nineteenth century. Pockets of communities left the UK and migrated because of familial links and because of specific skills, whether it be agricultural, fishery, mining etc. some communities in the UK were seriously depleted as people sought a better life.

Being forced to leave the museum at 6.00pm because it was closing for the day, we set about celebrating our 19th wedding anniversary. This particular anniversary is bronze and there is a superb bronze sculpture on the waterfront of a man preparing to dive into the sea. In Te Papa they have miniature bronzes on sale but at $4200 Angela thought it a bit excessive. She gave me a postcard of it instead.

As we sipped our drinks in the Dockside Bar, the sun came out and it was very pleasant. Moving on to Foxglove we had another drink before deciding on a meal. We had picked out Crab Shack as our chosen restaurant but on discovering there was a ninety minute wait for a table we went back to the Dockside but again there was a lengthy wait. We ended up at Potofino where we had an excellent meal before catching a late train back to Crofton Down.

Two years ago I visited Matiu Somes Island but felt rushed and did not manage to see it all. This time I decided to rectify that by spending an afternoon there.

The lighthouse on Matiu Somes Island

Catching the boat from Queen’s Wharf for the twenty minute crossing I began to survey my fellow passengers. It became apparent that I was going to be sharing my island visit with what looked like the equivalent of a social services trip. It was a multi tattooed group, some of whom did not really want to be there. Sadly I struggled to tell the difference between those who were in need of social service and those who were supervising. I began to regret my decision to venture to Somes Island on the same day. As it turned out the island was big enough to absorb us all and I hardly saw them until I caught the boat back several hours later.

Matiu Somes Island is named after the Kupe, the Maori chief who created a settlement for his daughters and by the businessman, Joseph Somes of the New Zealand Company who bought it but never actually saw it.

A Tui singing happily

It has had a variety of uses throughout the period if human history. In the mid nineteenth century it was used as a human quarantine station. Many of the migrants taking the long voyage from Europe developed contagious diseases during that voyage, so, rather than let them directly on to the mainland, ships called in at the island where passengers and crew went through a fumigation process. Some, particularly the young and vulnerable, died on arrival and never made it to the mainland. A small cemetery commemorates those whose dream was never fulfilled.

During the war four gun turrets were built on the highest point to defend Wellington from air attack. Despite New Zealand being so far from the rest of the world it was potentially vulnerable. The guns were never fired as the only time enemy aircraft flew near all those manning the guns were asleep.

Also during the war it was used as a degaussing station. The Germans were increasingly using magnetic mines which would be attracted by the magnetism of ships’ hulls. The degaussing process, operated by WRENs, changed the magnetic polarity of the hulls and protected ships from such a demise.

In the 1970s the island became a place of quarantine again, but this time for animals. Farmers were wanting to introduce new breeds from around the world but these could potentially destroy the breeds already in place. Any new animals entering New Zealand had to be cleared for entry by the quarantine establishment on the island. With the development of embryonics it quickly became less important and finally closed down in the mid nineties.

A Somes Island resident

It is now a national reserve and a strict code of conduct in relation to preserving it as a pure New Zealand environment is maintained. There are no non indigenous creatures on the island. It took them three years to eradicate it of rats, mice and other creatures brought in by one means or another.

This time I was able to see all of the island, to enjoy its wildlife, it’s dramatic scenery and it’s peace and quiet.

Tomorrow Ben and I move on, travelling north to complete the Tongariro Crossing, but that will be another chapter.

Knowing we had a long drive ahead of us we got up early and were on the road by 8.00am. For the first hour the road twisted, turned, climbed and dropped to such an extent that we seemed to cover very little distance and I began to fear that the journey was going to be tediously long. Luckily, once we had reached Waihi the road became straighter and progress was more promising. We wended our way around the coast to Tauranga, which brought us to the huge Bay of Plenty following the lengthy north coast renowned for long expansive beaches. Inland, Rotorua was not too far away and volcanic cones could be seen to the south. Out in the bay more volcanic islands rose steeply out of the sea. When we reached Opitiki we headed inland through the Waineka Gorge, a beautiful tree filled cleft cut into the hills. Having climbed to almost 1000m we began our descent towards Gisborne. The countryside changed from forested mountains to agricultural grassland, and then, nearer the coast vineyards and fruit orchards. We easily found our motel on the outskirts of town. It was a more traditionally built set of low buildings, which, while comfortable and fully equipped was a little dated and in need of a refurbishment. It did have a pool, which would prove useful later in the day. Driving into the town centre we looked for something by way of a late lunch. Town did not seem to have much to offer but we did find a nice waterside restaurant and bar by the port that could only do us a plate of potato wedges lathered with cheese and bacon. It was now mid afternoon and I was happy to eat anything by this stage.

Surf School

Weighed down by potato wedges we decided to explore the beaches. We had already been told that the beech closest to town was not as good as Wainui, a short distance to the north. Being almost the most easterly point of New Zealand this beach was exposed to the full force of the Pacific Ocean. Today the weather was calm, yet still decent waves rolled in, perfectly suitable for an after school surfing lesson for twenty teenagers. They used so much energy in the hour of their lesson it is unlikely that they would have any energy to do their homework in the evening. I was tired just watching them. It was a lovely beach. Before heading back to our motel for a swim we climbed up to the view point at Titirangi Park, overlooking the harbour and the town. Lots of people were running up and down the various routes in the park, some pushing babies in buggies. It was really quite steep and some sections were long flights of steps. Our reason for going to the top was not to get fit but as I said before, to get an impression of Gisborne.

Gisborne

In 1769, Captain Cook first set foot on New Zealand soil in Gisborne. He needed supplies for his ship, the Endeavour, and seeing a Moari settlement there thought it a good place to land. However, he mistook the greeting he was given (presumably a Haka) and interpreted it as a threat. He left quickly without replenishing his supplies and named the bay the Bay of Poverty.  Today, Gisborne has a population of 34,000. The port, which was immediately below us seems to be a major exit for the logging industry, with huge stock piles of newly felled tree trunks. On the other side of the river flowing into the harbour is the town. It is very much a single storey town with hardly a building having a second floor. The town lacks character and there are no buildings worthy of comment. It is not really a tourist town. However, its modern claim to fame is that it is the first town to see the sun rise in the morning and, therefore, the first town to see in the new year. Despite it being February there were still adverts in town, either left over from last new year or prematurely advertising the next, where over one hundred acts perform on five stages.

The foot of Titirangi Park is surrounded by an estate made up of mainly Moari people, living in quite ordinary houses. However, the Whangara Marae, or Moari meeting house is one of the finest in New Zealand.

The following morning we left quite early for the relatively short drive to Napier, the Art Deco capital of the world. En route we came across the Merere Hot Springs, so we made a spur of the moment decision to stop and take a look. It was five to ten and not yet open, which gave us five minutes to read the information boards and giggle at the spelling and punctuation mistakes. We were the first visitors of the day so we booked for a hot pool session. Walking up through the forest was fabulous with such variety of trees and the sunlight shafting through the foliage. There were three pools, a very hot one, a medium hot and a cold plunge pool. I tried the very hot one one first but it was just too hot so I acclimatised myself in the medium pool. After a while I was able to cope with the hot pool. I was soon joined by a Maori woman while her husband joined Angela in the medium pool. My pool partner could hold a conversation and the longer I stayed in the hot pool the more peculiar I felt but I did not wish to appear rude by leaping out mid conversation. Eventually there was an appropriate pause which allowed me to climb out and plunge into the cold pool.

Visiting the obligatory shop, run by a retired man, we tried to have a conversation with him but it proved very difficult to understand him as only about every third word was coherent. I wonder if he was the one who wrote the information boards?

Continuing our drive I could feel my feet burning from the scalding effect of the water.

Arriving in Napier in good time we spent the afternoon in the newly built museum learning about the 1931 earthquake that destroyed the town and killed 256 people. The most graphic detail came from a film of survivors stories.

I have never really been a fan of Art Deco, largely, I think, because it is often seen out of context. Here, in Napier, everything is Art Deco and it looks very attractive. We were staying in the Masonic Art Deco Hotel and as the name implies is was all as it should be. Outside cars, beautifully restored and maintained, from the 1930s were parked and available for hire, with a driver, for the Art Deco tour. Shopkeepers, in shops which specialised in the style were dressed appropriately. There is a certain decadence, even frivolity, about the style and we felt it as we sat on the first floor terrace of the hotel, overlooking the street below, drinking wine. Remarkably this was our own wine. It must be one of the few hotels in the world that allows you to consume your own beverages without having to purchase from the hotel in the first place.

Having eaten we took an evening stroll through the meticulously manicured gardens on the sea front, with trees decked with coloured lights casting their glow over the flower beds beneath. Napier proved to be everything that Gisborne had not been. The buildings were interesting, it seemed to welcome tourists and was more geared up for them. A cruise ship was in harbour, so clearly they are used to mass influxes of people. It was a town that was cared for and had been lovingly restored from the disaster of 1931. I liked it. It was quirky. Sadly, the only thing that let Napier down was the quality of the beach, it was a grey shingle, such a contrast to the many golden and white sandy beaches we had encountered so far.

The following morning we drove the 300 plus kilometres to Wellington for some family time.

The flight from Singapore proved enjoyable in that I was able to watch some films, the most memorable being Captain Phillips. The eight overnight hours in Brisbane airport trying to sleep but failing, meant that by the time we reached Auckland I was beginning to feel quite jaded. Having successfully passed through customs without being told off this time and not wishing to delay our journey north I went straight to the Avis desk with whom Ben had pre-booked a car for us. By the time we were upgraded and all the other paperwork was done the best part of an hour had passed before we could finally leave the airport. Our first obstacle was getting through Auckland. Somewhere we went wrong and found ourselves heading back towards the airport. The second attempt proved much more successful and we eventually found ourselves heading north towards Whangerei in deteriorating weather. The weather in Northland has some of the best in New Zealand. This summer has been particularly good with hardly a drop of rain for weeks. So, why is it that when we arrive the weather changes from the norm to wet and windy?

After nearly three hours on the road we reached Settlers Hotel. The girl in reception was very friendly and smiley. As I unloaded the car in the rain as the light faded a man stepped out of the adjacent room holding a baby. He asked if I needed a hand. It struck me as quite a strange offer as he seemed to have his hands full so I turned him down. He laughed and I realised it was Ben. He, Kelly and Eva had come up from Wellington to surprise us. Angela was appropriately moved. Ben had had some filming to do for Whaitangi Day, the day commemorating the signing of the treaty between the Maori nation and the British. Having finished he arranged for him and his family to have the room next to us so that they could surprise us. No wonder the girl on reception had such a big smile. It was a lovely surprise and ensured that we did not fall asleep too early.

Ninety Mile Beach

After breakfast the following morning Ben headed south back to Wellington while Angela and I headed north. Our final destination was only an hour or so further north but as the weather was still foul we decided to head further north and have a look at Ninety Mile Beach, a magnificent stretch of firm sand. It is possible to take your car on to the beach and drive the full length of it. Sadly, there is a clause in our car hire agreement that prevents us from taking the car on to the beach. I was very tempted but the voice of reason was sitting beside me.

Instead, we donned our waterproofs and set out to walk just a short section. As we did so occasional cars sped past us. We came across four young men fishing from the beach. They had a fantastic system. They sent out a line attached to a torpedo. When fully extended the line was 2km long. Along its length were many baited hooks. It took about half an hour for the line to be fully extended. Then it was left in the water for another half hour before it was wound in by hand. Many of the hooks had fish hanging from them, Snapper and Kahawai. It was great to watch them. They were not commercial fishermen but did it for fun for family and friends. They offered us some but we sadly declined.

It was a fabulous walk, despite the weather. The strong wind created a mist of spray giving a mysterious view of the beach as it disappeared beyond the horizon.

A staircase made from an ancient Kauri tree

On the way back south we visited the workshop and showroom of the ancient Kauri tree, the oldest workable wood in the world. Once this area of Northland was covered by massive Kauri trees. Today Kauri trees are protected but those they work with were consumed by swamps and preserved for 45,000 years. Occasionally a farmer may come across an ancient tree, which can then be dried very slowly before the craftsmen are able to work on them. These trees are huge; one in the showroom has a staircase carved through the trunk gaining access to the first floor. Large items of furniture are made, which cost a fortune. Even much smaller items are costly bit the feel of the finished product is a pleasure to touch. It is an incredibly heavy wood so, when buying, we had to think about weight. We did buy a small item from the seconds display, a baguette holder.

We finally reached Paihia, our base for the next two nights at about 7.00pm. The Dolphin Motel situated about 200m inland is well equipped and Paul, our host who’s family heralds from Pershore, was very friendly and welcoming.

This area of Northland played an important part in the early days of New Zealand. Captain Cook came into the Bay of Islands to shelter from a storm and made contact with some of the Maori communities on the islands. The first settlers came to this area and Russell, a small town across from Paihia was the original capital of New Zealand. The first missionaries came to these islands. One of the first was Marsden who on seeing the area where Paihia is said to his Maori friends the it was “pai here”, pai being the Moari for “good”, hence Paihia.

Although it rained most of the night the morning dawned dry with the potential to brighten up. We were booked on the Bay of Islands Cream Tour, named from the time in the early 1900s when a boat used to travel from island to island collecting churns of cream from the farmers and taking them to the mainland.

Map of the Bay of Islands

Setting off at 9.30 we had fourteen specific points of interest to visit and the hope of seeing dolphins, and maybe swimming with them. I’m not going to give you detail of the fourteen points but needless to say there were quite a lot of historical references to Captain Cook and the first missionary settlers. As interesting as they were it is impossible to remember the detail and therefore I think it best to avoid.

The Bay of Islands National Park Authority cares for all the islands, although some islands, or parts of islands, are in private ownership. A consortium of twenty-two different families owns one such island, and ownership remains with those families forever. However, if a family wishes to relinquish its ownership it has to remain with the consortium. These properties are fabulous! Who would want to relinquish living in one of them, even if it is just a holiday home?

The highlight of the day has to be an encounter with a pod of Bottle Nosed Dolphins. They were quite numerous and clearly enjoyed interaction with humans. They swam alongside our boat, under the bow, and even scratched themselves on the rudder. Often they would swim on their sides so that they could make eye contact with us. There was at least one baby (only two months old), which meant we would not be able to swim with them. Whilst swimming with dolphins is a pleasure, it is, perhaps, even more pleasurable to watch them from close quarters. From the prow of the boat we were able to see much more and witness their speed and agility. They are the most beautiful of creatures.

Again, we were given lots of information about the life style of dolphins, far too many to relate here. However, it is interesting to note that in their natural environment they can live for up to fifty years. In captivity that can be reduced to as few as eight years. The bond between mother and baby is incredibly strong, hence us not being able to swim with them and interfere with that bond. Dolphins are very emotional creatures and if a calf should die, the mother will carry with her until it disintegrates rather than allowing a predator make use of it. Apparently, dolphins are like humans and have sex for pleasure as well as for procreation.

This beach struck me as being particularly attractive

All around us there was activity on the water. Being the weekend there were lots of weekend fishers, many seeming to have lots of success. They attracted sea birds, wishing to pick up any bits that may be offered or come their way. Often the fishermen would read the activity of the birds to gain knowledge of what lay beneath the surface. Gannets dive bombed at great speed and came up with their catches hanging from their beaks or bulging their throats. There was always so much to see.

Our only landing of the day was on an the island of Urupukapuka where we were not only having lunch but an opportunity for a swim and to climb a nearby hill affording fantastic views of the whole of the Bay of Islands. It is interesting how people react to such an opportunity. Many had spent the last three and a half hours sitting on a boat and now spent the next hour and twenty minutes sitting on the beach or on the grass behind. Some people are unbelievably lazy. How can they not want to explore? They are probably never going to visit this place again, so why not make the most of the opportunity.

Angela and I delayed lunching so that we could go snorkeling. As we got off the boat we noticed a huge shoal of Snapper swimming around the stern of the boat. Loaded with my Gopro I swam to the stern of the boat and spent a magical time with the Snapper, who were not afraid of me at all. Wait until I go fishing!!

Having eaten we then climbed the nearby hill on the headland. It was a bit steep and the sun beating down meant that it was also quite hot. The view was stunning. It took several shots to get a full 360˚. This has to be one of the most beautiful places in the world and the day was perfect. Wow!! By the time we descended it was time to climb aboard and head out to the Hole in the Rock.

The Hole is the Rock is on the outer limits of the Bay of Islands and necessitates us crossing an open stretch of water exposed to the Pacific Ocean. So far we had been in sheltered waters. As the boat sped across the sea we bounced on the ever-growing swell towards a lump of rock. As we got near we could see that there was a huge arch. Our captain lined the boat up and took us through. The previous three days the weather had been poor and the swell too great to risk such a maneuver so we were privileged.

On the other side of the hole we were given a spectacle that amazed the crew as much as us. Thousands and thousands of fish feeding on krill forced up from the deep by ocean currents rising to meet the continental shelf agitated the surface of the sea. Sitting calmly on the water were gulls also enjoying the krill. Every-so-often there would be frantic movement as the fish were harassed from below by a predator, probably a King Fish. It was incredible to watch, quite easy to film but impossible to photograph.

By now we had visited all fourteen sights so it was time to head back. Reports reached us that there were no other pods of dolphin in the bay so the ‘swimming with dolphins’ option was not going to be available. Disappointing but not the end of the world.

Great fun! I am on the left at the back of the net. Photo curtesy of David Fulcher

There was still one more opportunity to be had. Bringing the boat to a standstill, the crew put a net out to the side of the boat between two booms. It looked like a very large hammock. Those that wished to could jump in and cling on. Not wishing to forgo the opportunity I jumped in and took up position by the rear boom. It proved not to be the best place as all the wash came through me – literally. It was great fun and hopefully a fellow passenger will send me some pictures as Angela was so busy watching she forgot. I now know what a fish feels like to be caught up in a net!

It had been a great day and the skin tingled from the sun and fresh sea air.

The next day, Sunday, we had a long journey through southern Northland, Auckland and round on to the Coromandel Peninsular. The maximum speed limit in New Zealand is 100kph but the roads often don’t allow that speed to be achieved. State Highways, with the exception of either side of Auckland are single carriageways in each direction. The roads tend to twist, turn, climb and descend, so what would be a very straightforward journey in the UK turns into something of an epic. We were covering approximately 400km. The pleasurable thing about journeys here though is the lack of traffic. Except on a Sunday at the end of a bank holiday weekend when everybody is returning to Auckland. We were stuck in a very slow moving traffic jam for an hour north of Warkworth. I though it must be roadwork’s or an accident but no, it was a set of traffic lights causing a 10km queue!

Once through Auckland, via the motorway this time, most of the traffic was coming towards us and the roads in our direction were pretty clear.

Once on the Coromandel Peninsular the road hugged the coastline, twisting and turning, with nothing between us and the sea should we decide to leave the road. The scenery was stunning, particularly so when we had to cut across to the east coast, rising steeply through the mountains to drop just as steeply down the other side.

We eventually arrived at Whitianga just before 7.00pm, having left Paihia at 9.45 in the morning. The motel was excellent, the more so because we had been upgraded to having a full suite with a sea view.

The following morning we decided to visit New Chums Beach. In 2006, the Sunday Observer voted New Chums Beach as one of the top twenty beaches in the world. I guess one of the positives for this beach is that it is only accessible by taking a forty minute walk from the nearest road. A thirty minute drive took us to Whangapoua where we left the car and started the walk, firstly across Whangapoua Beach, itself beautiful, over boulders, through the forest, over a small rise and finally down to New Chums Beach. It is idyllic. Azure blue sea breaking on to almost white sand with a vivid green backdrop of forested hills and hardly another soul in sight.

A swim, a walk along the length of the beach, photographs of oyster catchers and sandlins, a laze in the sun, another swim. Life is so hard at times I really don’t know how I cope. At the far end of the beach I met a dazzling babe, an ex star of Health and Efficiency who posed provocatively for me on some rocks at the water’s edge!!

Having been told that access can be difficult either side of high tide we chose to return to Whangapoua and head back to Whitianga and have a walk in the afternoon. We had planned to walk the Coromandel Walkway in the afternoon but it would have meant spending rather more time in the car than we both desired. It also became apparent that the roads we needed to travel on were gravel roads and our car hire insurance forbade us to travel on such roads.

A Blue Heron providing some ornithological interest

Taking the ferry across the estuary at Whitianga we followed the Maramarototara track which climbed steeply through the trees to the top of the hill. It was hot, I’d had a couple of beers, and it was hard work. The view from the top was excellent but the disappointment was that we had to drop just as far down to the sea. If we had taken the road we would have got there a lot quicker and without as much effort. We were aiming for Cook’s Beach, another of those coves where Captain Cook anchored his ship. It was a pleasant beach but after the beaches we had encountered in the morning and at the Bay of Islands it was a bit of a disappointment.

Following the road this time we returned to the ferry as quickly as we could and returned to Whitianga. As we landed a launch came in and deposited its half dozen passengers. It takes people out to Cathedral Cove, to a marine reserve for snorkeling, and various other bays on a two and a half hour trip. We had plans to go the Cathedral Cove on route to Whangamata for our next night’s accommodation. However, it was not a long journey and could easily be achieved in a couple of hours, so we decided to spend the morning with Ken and his boat exploring these treats from the sea.

The following morning we met Ken, who had managed to acquire three more passengers and, at the last minute, a non English speaking Chinese man who sat with us and kept giving us the thumbs up.

Shakespeare?

On the southern end of Mercury bay is Shakespeare Point. I was intrigued how Shakespeare had managed to travel so far. The story goes that when Captain Cook brought his Endeavour into Mercury Bay in 1769 the shape of the cliff reminded him of Shakespeare. A face can easily be seen in profile but as to whether it looks like Shakespeare I’ll leave you to decide.

Cathedral Cove

Reaching Cathedral Cove, named because of the shape of the arch linking the two halves of the beach, is spectacular. A large column of rock rises out of the sea and another lump seriously eroded around its base make this a fascinating cove. It is possible to walk to this cove but it takes time and when you want to see everything, sometimes it is best to take the easier option. I think probably the best way is by sea kayak, which allows you to land and see everything from a different perspective. Sadly we did not have time to go ashore.

Champagne Cove

Another cove, named Champagne Cove because two pillars represented an upturned champagne flute and a bottle. Adjacent to them was a rock looking like a charging elephant.

All of these wonderful places are in a marine reserve, meaning that nothing can be taken from these waters. No fishing is allowed, no shells or anything must be taken. The fish should not be fed but occasionally Ken dropped a few pellets into the water to fertilise the seaweed. The fact that Snapper got to the pellets first was not his fault. What it gave us was a good view of the fish. Here we were able to snorkel among the fish so Angela and I took the opportunity. Not as spectacular as the snorkeling we did in the Bay of Islands, it was still pretty spectacular. One fish was much larger than the other but I’m not sure what it was.

Looking out from within the cave

Climbing back aboard we went out to an island to see some more sea caves and then back to the mainland to see the third largest sea cave in the southern hemisphere. Ken took his boat right inside. The water beneath us was about thirteen metres deep and the roof of the cave was probably a similar distance above our heads.

From there it was quickly back to Whitianga, a spot of lunch and then the short drive to Whangamata via the Hot Water Beach. Unfortunately we did not get our timing right as the tide was almost at its highest. Beneath the beach there is a thermal fissure of hot water bubbling up. When the tide is out people dig pits in the sand and create their own thermal pool to lie in. Not while we were there. All we could do was stand in the shallows and bore our feet into the sand. I don’t know how people lie in it because when we hit the right spot it was unbearably hot. Remarkably, I found my hands were even less tolerant than my feet. It was like dipping into boiling water.

We arrived in Whangamata in the late afternoon, which is no bad thing as we have a long day on the road to Gisborne tomorrow.

Angela’s Anecdotes

Arrival in NZ after a wonderful week in transit was not blighted by jet lag.

Ben & family’s surprise appearance at our first motel was magical. Eva is 10 months old & nearly walking independently. She eyed us curiously at first but soon smiled and responded with a few gurgles & Dadas!!

Dull but warm weather took us off piste! Great to see 90 mile beach, coffee in a Maori township (3 generations all with robust bodies & broad grins) sat beside us.

More culture at the Ancient Kauri cafe! Wonderful woodwork.

Then we hit beautiful Bay of Islands! A paradise! Especially in hot sunshine, enjoyed every minute.

On to Coromandel. Another playground for grown ups & children alike. By the way the Summer holidays are over & the children went back to school on Feb 1st. Phew!

Fair bit of walking done, we BOTH have sore feet!

Another boat trip taken to view gorgeous geological cliffs, caves & nudist beaches!! Snorkelled with snappers (John included) All amazing.