September and into early October has been fabulous. The sun has shone most days since children went back to school. But the forecasters tell us that change is on its way and so, with one last day of sunshine, I decided to take myself off for a walk.
The south Shropshire hills are beautiful. I lived on the Stiperstones, near the summit, in the early 80s, so I know that area very well. The area around Clun I know less well, so I decided I was going to make the most of this last day of good weather for a while, and took myself off to Clun. It was an interesting drive with pockets of dense fog in the hollows and bright sunshine on the higher bits. The rivers Severn, Teme, Lugg and Onny, all being low points, were shrouded in thick fog. You did not have to climb very high to rise above it and enjoy the beauty of an autumn morning. The colours of autumn are beginning to show, making the trees that much more attractive.
Clun Castle
Clun is a sleepy little town, which seems to have very little in the way of public amenities. There is not a street of shops, or at least I did not find one, but there are a couple of pubs, a church with the bulkiest tower of any church and the remains of a motte and bailey castle. The banks protecting the the keep, now in ruins, are very steep. What it lacks in size it makes up for with impression.
Working my way around the castle I picked up the Shropshire Way which took me up the valley of the River Clun towards a spur separating the valley from another. It was not a steep climb, but a steady one through fields populated with sheep. One field caused me some concern as at least one in three of the sheep seemed to be lame; an unusually high proportion. I hope the farmer is aware and is prepared to do something about it. The ridge I now found myself on afforded me views to either side of rolling Shropshire countryside, some of the best English rural countryside to be found anywhere.
Beautiful Shropshire countryside
Stopping for a coffee on the highest point of this stretch of the Shropshire Way I could see almost the whole of the day’s route. Ahead of me was the dome shape of Hergan, behind which the Shropshire Way links up with Offa’s Dyke. At the junction I would leave the Shropshire Way and follow Offa’s Dyke south up and down a number of hills to the west of me. I would eventually drop down into the Clun valley to climb another ridge to the south where I would pick up the Jack Mytton Way, which would return me to Clun. It is not wild country, certainly on a day when the weather is so good, but it is nicely rounded, friendly and inviting.
Offa’s Dyke
As I was preparing to leave after my coffee I saw my only other walker of the day who was doing the same route as me but a little behind me. Leaving him drinking his own coffee and consuming a snack, I continued on my way, dropping down to Three Gates before climbing again and walking round the back of Hergan. It was round the back that I took to Offa’s Dyke, clearly visible as a ditch with a steep slope down on the Welsh side. From now on the walk was more interesting from a walking point of view as it became a series of steep ups and downs rather than one long slope. It was along this stretch, soon after I had stopped for lunch, that I came across an interesting finger post marking the halfway point of Offa’s Dyke. Chepstow was exactly 88.5 miles to the south and Prestatyn the same distance to the north.
The Clun Valley
Dropping into the Clun valley not far from Newcastle on Clun, I quickly began to climb up Spode Hill to Springhill Farm. Here, at the top, I chose not to follow my planned route as the farmer had not made the field I wanted to cross particularly accessible, so I took a circuitous route that probably added at least half a mile, if not more, to my total mileage. Next time I will not be so considerate to the farmer and follow the route that is shown on the map.
I eventually joined the Jack Mytton Way, which proved to be the least interesting section of the walk as much of it was on tarmac lanes, which at the end of a walk is tiring on the feet. Nevertheless, it brought me back to Clun where there was a welcome tea shop adjacent to the small stone bridge over the river and 50 yards from the car park. The route was 11.5 delightful miles, which had taken me a little under 5 hours to complete. Of course, walking with a group in November, perhaps in less favourable conditions, may take a little longer, but who cares, it is great to be out in such fabulous country.
